Dear Fairy Model Mother: What's up With All the Agent Fees?

GQ India March 2013

Hello lovelies! It's your guardian angel here for your monthly dose of advice. I really appreciate all of your emails and I'm doing my best to get around to them. This question comes from a working model who's been thinking about switching representation. She met with an agency I'm familiar with who's interested in signing the beauty. The main booker gave her a contract to consider and upon further examination she said:

"I was reading over it and started thinking, they have alot of financial obligations...like $300 a year for a modeling website, 100 zed cards (which I'm not sure who even uses those anymore), new headshots from test photographers for $250-450! Almost seems kinda scamy...am I crazy??"

You guys already know I hate dealing with contracts. It seems like they are only designed to benefit one party and not the other, but it's a necessary working agreement. In order to get to the bottom of this, I pulled out every modeling contract I have. From my experience, somewhere in every agreement there exists a clause about expenses. One contract of mine states "Model understands that Agency will deduct 20% commissions as well as any expenses and/or reimbursements to the Agency." Another goes into further detail and lays out the deductions including comp card printing, courier charges, website fees, attorney fees, etc.

You would think that all these expenses would be included in the agent's commission for the jobs you book, but it's not. Your reps will argue that in order to properly market you, they need all of this stuff. This may be true. Maintaining your online portfolio and promotional materials takes money. The agency will front these expenses for you knowing they'll get it back somehow. Keep in mind you should never be charged up front for comp cards, test shoots, and the like. These get billed to you later or deducted from your checks. When you receive payment, the accounting department should itemize all of your expenses. And guess what? When you're doing your taxes later, you can write these expenses off.

Is this practice shady? Not really. Wouldn't you rather know exactly what you're paying for instead of getting a surprise later. But if you're feeling like it's risky business, you've got options. You can amend the contract and state that certain expenses must go through your approval beforehand or that you'd rather pay for them yourself. For example: I opted out of getting a portfolio printed and instead I have my book on my iPad, saving probably $200. What you have to remember is that you have control over this situation because in the end it's your money and your career on the line. Best of luck!

As always, if you've got any questions or you need a bit of advice, the Fairy Model Mother hotline is always open.